Tbilisi Guidebook 1

Brad
Tbilisi Guidebook 1

Sightseeing

The Dezerter Bazaar is one of the best food markets in the city. Head there in the morning or early afternoon to see the vendors’ full stock. The indoor and outdoor marketplace has local produce, meat, seafood, spices, and Georgian specialities. Dried persimmons are common from fall to late spring. You’ll see colorful strings of churchkhela, nuts covered in a grape juice paste, hanging from stalls. Tklapi is a fruit roll-up in different flavors including quince and sour feijoa.
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The Dezerter Bazaar
5 Abastumani St
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The Dezerter Bazaar is one of the best food markets in the city. Head there in the morning or early afternoon to see the vendors’ full stock. The indoor and outdoor marketplace has local produce, meat, seafood, spices, and Georgian specialities. Dried persimmons are common from fall to late spring. You’ll see colorful strings of churchkhela, nuts covered in a grape juice paste, hanging from stalls. Tklapi is a fruit roll-up in different flavors including quince and sour feijoa.

Dance

Boris Paichadze Dinamo Arena, more commonly known as Dinamo Stadium, is the home of Georgia’s national football and rugby teams. Watch one of their home games here during the season. The basement of this stadium hosts Georgia’s most famous nightclub, Bassiani. The unused stadium swimming pool is the dance floor. Bassiani opens around midnight and people party till morning on weekends and special occasions.
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Dinamo Arena Stadium
2 Akaki Tsereteli Ave
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Boris Paichadze Dinamo Arena, more commonly known as Dinamo Stadium, is the home of Georgia’s national football and rugby teams. Watch one of their home games here during the season. The basement of this stadium hosts Georgia’s most famous nightclub, Bassiani. The unused stadium swimming pool is the dance floor. Bassiani opens around midnight and people party till morning on weekends and special occasions.

Food scene

Agmashenebeli is a long avenue with 19th century classic architecture. Enjoy a nice stroll as you observe the refurbished buildings, storefronts, and cafes. Where Agmashenebeli Avenue meets Kiev you’ll find a Ukrainian bathhouse. Tucked down a side street is the Rose Garden, a nice place to find some calm from the bustling city. The south end of the street turns into a pedestrian walkway. There are some nice restaurants such as the eclectic Chveni. However, the south end can also have some tourist traps. Just be aware and check out menus before choosing a place.
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Davit Agmashenebeli Ave
37-39 Davit Aghmashenebeli Ave
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Agmashenebeli is a long avenue with 19th century classic architecture. Enjoy a nice stroll as you observe the refurbished buildings, storefronts, and cafes. Where Agmashenebeli Avenue meets Kiev you’ll find a Ukrainian bathhouse. Tucked down a side street is the Rose Garden, a nice place to find some calm from the bustling city. The south end of the street turns into a pedestrian walkway. There are some nice restaurants such as the eclectic Chveni. However, the south end can also have some tourist traps. Just be aware and check out menus before choosing a place.
Mapshalia is a cheap and cheerful neighborhood restaurant with traditional Georgian food. The interior has simple tables with ornate 3D sculptures popping out of the wall. Despite the no-frills service and simple picture menu, the food is surprisingly tasty. It’s the type of place that feels like you’ve stepped into someone’s kitchen. Your best bet is to order a bunch of dishes to share family-style. As a heads up, Georgian food can be pretty heavy and oily. This place is no exception, so come hungry. Cash only.
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Mafshalia (მაფშალია)
137 Davit Aghmashenebeli Avenue
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Mapshalia is a cheap and cheerful neighborhood restaurant with traditional Georgian food. The interior has simple tables with ornate 3D sculptures popping out of the wall. Despite the no-frills service and simple picture menu, the food is surprisingly tasty. It’s the type of place that feels like you’ve stepped into someone’s kitchen. Your best bet is to order a bunch of dishes to share family-style. As a heads up, Georgian food can be pretty heavy and oily. This place is no exception, so come hungry. Cash only.
Ghebi, sometimes spelled Gebi, is another classic, family-style Georgian restaurant. It boasts good food and prices in an unassuming atmosphere. It caters to locals so you can expect authentic, quality dishes. Its name hails from the village of Gebi in the Racha region. Racha is known for its cuisine, in particular, shkmeruli, chicken in a garlic cream sauce. Another favorite at this restaurant is khinkali, Georgian dumplings. Come hungry and bring friends.
Ghebi
Ghebi, sometimes spelled Gebi, is another classic, family-style Georgian restaurant. It boasts good food and prices in an unassuming atmosphere. It caters to locals so you can expect authentic, quality dishes. Its name hails from the village of Gebi in the Racha region. Racha is known for its cuisine, in particular, shkmeruli, chicken in a garlic cream sauce. Another favorite at this restaurant is khinkali, Georgian dumplings. Come hungry and bring friends.
Once a soviet sewing factory, this building turned into a trendy space with a hostel, bars, restaurants, and concept stores. The variety of restaurants includes Georgian, Asian, burgers, and international cuisine. The outside is covered in graffiti, giving it an urban vibe and attracting a younger clientele and many digital nomads. Cozy up on a couch inside to sip a coffee and people watch. Or head to the courtyard where most of the action and the dining options are. There is indoor and outdoor seating at the restaurants depending on the season.
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Fabrika Tbilisi
8 Egnate Ninoshvili St
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Once a soviet sewing factory, this building turned into a trendy space with a hostel, bars, restaurants, and concept stores. The variety of restaurants includes Georgian, Asian, burgers, and international cuisine. The outside is covered in graffiti, giving it an urban vibe and attracting a younger clientele and many digital nomads. Cozy up on a couch inside to sip a coffee and people watch. Or head to the courtyard where most of the action and the dining options are. There is indoor and outdoor seating at the restaurants depending on the season.
Weller offers a mix of Georgian and Middle Eastern dishes with well-paired wines and creative cocktails. The decor is simple but elegant with earthy accents. If your taste buds are craving Middle Eastern food, this place comes highly recommended. The food is fresh and flavorful, and their service is friendly. The weekend brunch special is a tasty veggie or meat mezze platter meant for sharing.
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Weller
56 Egnate Ninoshvili Street
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Weller offers a mix of Georgian and Middle Eastern dishes with well-paired wines and creative cocktails. The decor is simple but elegant with earthy accents. If your taste buds are craving Middle Eastern food, this place comes highly recommended. The food is fresh and flavorful, and their service is friendly. The weekend brunch special is a tasty veggie or meat mezze platter meant for sharing.
Barbarestan gives you an upscale twist on old, classic recipes. The interior is reminiscent of the early 20th century with vintage lampshades, soft lighting, and antique table settings. Take a peek downstairs to see the exposed brick walls and wine collection. The quality of ingredients combined with the well-paired flavors makes this restaurant a high-end foodie’s favorite. Georgia isn’t known for its service, but this restaurant is an exception. Expect staff that are on their game and knowledgeable about the menu.
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Barbarestan
132 Davit Aghmashenebeli Ave
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Barbarestan gives you an upscale twist on old, classic recipes. The interior is reminiscent of the early 20th century with vintage lampshades, soft lighting, and antique table settings. Take a peek downstairs to see the exposed brick walls and wine collection. The quality of ingredients combined with the well-paired flavors makes this restaurant a high-end foodie’s favorite. Georgia isn’t known for its service, but this restaurant is an exception. Expect staff that are on their game and knowledgeable about the menu.

Art

The Art Palace, or Museum of Cultural History, houses artifacts of the theater, cinema, music, and choreography of Georgia. It has fine art pieces from Georgian, Russian, European, and Persian collections. The building itself is a beautiful sight with an interesting history. Walk from room to room in this old palace and explore the history of the country through its art. The knowledgeable staff are happy to share the stories of the building and pieces when asked.
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Art Palace
Ia Kargareteli Street
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The Art Palace, or Museum of Cultural History, houses artifacts of the theater, cinema, music, and choreography of Georgia. It has fine art pieces from Georgian, Russian, European, and Persian collections. The building itself is a beautiful sight with an interesting history. Walk from room to room in this old palace and explore the history of the country through its art. The knowledgeable staff are happy to share the stories of the building and pieces when asked.

Neighborhoods

Welcome to the Plekhanov District! This area is a mix of old and new. The buildings along Agmashenebeli Street have been refurbished, appearing colorful and grand, while the smaller side streets have a crumbling but charming aesthetic. The apartment is a convenient 10 minute walk to Station Square. For everyday items, you can walk downstairs to the Carrefour market. Larger supermarkets can be found by the station itself. Station Square is the central transportation hub with subway and train stations. The subway can connect you to other Tbilisi neighborhoods while the train goes to other cities within the country. The station itself has many electronic and chain clothing stores. Just outside the station, you’ll find a bustling market with just about everything under the sun. It’s a bit of a maze to navigate but can be fun if you’re not in a rush. Plekhanov is a quickly growing district thanks in part to the nearby social hub, Fabrika. Its popularity has encouraged other cafes and neighborhood restaurants to open recently. There is a second, even closer Fabrika in the works. You can find mainstream shops, cafes, and convenience stores along the main streets, Agmashenebeli, Marjanishvili, and Queen Tamar. If privately owned shops are more your taste, wander south from Station Square towards Fabrika. There are several vintage stores and small outlets with American brands on the way. Antique stores are found along Tsinamdzgvrishvili. The Plekhanov District is a diverse neighborhood with a lot to offer. Whether you are looking to relax in a cafe or feel the vibrant energy of the city, you can easily find it here.
Station Square
Station Square
Welcome to the Plekhanov District! This area is a mix of old and new. The buildings along Agmashenebeli Street have been refurbished, appearing colorful and grand, while the smaller side streets have a crumbling but charming aesthetic. The apartment is a convenient 10 minute walk to Station Square. For everyday items, you can walk downstairs to the Carrefour market. Larger supermarkets can be found by the station itself. Station Square is the central transportation hub with subway and train stations. The subway can connect you to other Tbilisi neighborhoods while the train goes to other cities within the country. The station itself has many electronic and chain clothing stores. Just outside the station, you’ll find a bustling market with just about everything under the sun. It’s a bit of a maze to navigate but can be fun if you’re not in a rush. Plekhanov is a quickly growing district thanks in part to the nearby social hub, Fabrika. Its popularity has encouraged other cafes and neighborhood restaurants to open recently. There is a second, even closer Fabrika in the works. You can find mainstream shops, cafes, and convenience stores along the main streets, Agmashenebeli, Marjanishvili, and Queen Tamar. If privately owned shops are more your taste, wander south from Station Square towards Fabrika. There are several vintage stores and small outlets with American brands on the way. Antique stores are found along Tsinamdzgvrishvili. The Plekhanov District is a diverse neighborhood with a lot to offer. Whether you are looking to relax in a cafe or feel the vibrant energy of the city, you can easily find it here.

City/town information

Tbilisi is a city of contrasts. The architecture is a blend of old and new, and the culture a mix of modern and traditional. The city is full of hidden gems. Not everything is on Google maps, and there are constantly new shops and cafes popping up. Don’t be afraid to wander the streets and discover some secret spots on your own. Most of the must-see sights are spread out in the center. The city center is divided into several districts. While not an exhaustive list, I recommend the following activities by neighborhood:
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Tbilisi
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Tbilisi is a city of contrasts. The architecture is a blend of old and new, and the culture a mix of modern and traditional. The city is full of hidden gems. Not everything is on Google maps, and there are constantly new shops and cafes popping up. Don’t be afraid to wander the streets and discover some secret spots on your own. Most of the must-see sights are spread out in the center. The city center is divided into several districts. While not an exhaustive list, I recommend the following activities by neighborhood:

Consejos para la ciudad

Cómo moverse

Taxis are so cheap

Yandex and Bolt are two main taxi apps. Yandex is often cheaper. Bolt tends to be more English-friendly. They will have the cheapest rates to/from the airport. The average rate to/from the airport is about 30 lari ($9). Trips cost between 3-8 lari ($1-3) within the city center. If you catch a cab off the street, prices will be higher, they will only accept cash, and communication might be challenging.
Formas de ahorrar

Food Delivery Services

Glovo and Wolt are the two main delivery apps. You can get anything delivered to your doorstep- from medicine to meals. Delivery drivers don’t always speak English but will call your cell phone when they arrive. If you don’t have a local number, pay attention to the delivery driver’s location to be safe.
Formas de ahorrar

Phone and WiFi

Magti and Beeline offer local sim cards. You can pick one up at the airport kiosk or go into their stores in the city. While both offer sim plans geared towards tourists, you are better off purchasing the sim card and a pay-as-you-go plan. Magti tends to have the best coverage in the city. Unlimited weekly data is the best deal and runs about 7.50 lari ($2.50) a week. You can top up with a credit card on their mobile app or use a payment machine found on almost every street corner. Add additional money if you’d like to make local calls. The Wifi from phone services, and Tbilisi in general,
Costumbres y cultura

Safety

Tbilisi, and Georgia in general, are very safe. Pickpockets and theft are uncommon. The most significant danger is probably a few crazy drivers. Just make sure to use crosswalks and look both ways, and you’ll be fine. Scam artists occasionally target single men by having women ask for drinks in touristy bars and then slapping them with a huge bill. However, this is not common by any means and easy to avoid when aware. There’s no need to be alarmed by street animals. The overwhelming majority are extremely friendly and docile. They are looked after well by the local community. A tag on th