Guidebook for Marseille

Sébastien
Guidebook for Marseille

Sightseeing

Marseille’s old port is hardly a secret, but the art of visiting is in the timing. Aim to go there at around 8.30am, when fishermen empty their buckets on to stands while locals with weathered faces jostle to pick through the flip-flopping fish for the best of the day’s catch. If you’re looking to relax with a portside pastis as the sun goes down, you can’t go far wrong in any of the bars lining the Vieux-Port, but for food you might want to be more picky. Le Poulpe run by old schoolfriends Michel Ankri and Michel Portos, sources most of its food locally, but has received mixed reviews, namely over service. However, a dinner with bonito, a member of the tuna family, served with crisp vegetables on the terrace on a warm early spring evening gives nothing to complain about, and three courses will only set you back about €26, including wine.
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Vieux-Port - Hôtel de Ville
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Marseille’s old port is hardly a secret, but the art of visiting is in the timing. Aim to go there at around 8.30am, when fishermen empty their buckets on to stands while locals with weathered faces jostle to pick through the flip-flopping fish for the best of the day’s catch. If you’re looking to relax with a portside pastis as the sun goes down, you can’t go far wrong in any of the bars lining the Vieux-Port, but for food you might want to be more picky. Le Poulpe run by old schoolfriends Michel Ankri and Michel Portos, sources most of its food locally, but has received mixed reviews, namely over service. However, a dinner with bonito, a member of the tuna family, served with crisp vegetables on the terrace on a warm early spring evening gives nothing to complain about, and three courses will only set you back about €26, including wine.
Once gritty and run-down, the increasingly trendy Panier district in the heart of the city is delineated by the 17th-century Fort Saint-Jean at its southern tip, and the unmissable Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations (MuCEM), which opened in 2013, to the west.
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Au Vieux Panier
13 Rue du Panier
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Once gritty and run-down, the increasingly trendy Panier district in the heart of the city is delineated by the 17th-century Fort Saint-Jean at its southern tip, and the unmissable Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations (MuCEM), which opened in 2013, to the west.
the big church which overlooks the city. Old fishermen used to have their boats blessed in this church. You can still see many boat models hanging around in the church. From there it is one of the nicest view of the city. You can use the tourist train from the Vieux Port to reach the church - you can get off the train, look around and board a later train back to the port.
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Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde
Rue Fort du Sanctuaire
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the big church which overlooks the city. Old fishermen used to have their boats blessed in this church. You can still see many boat models hanging around in the church. From there it is one of the nicest view of the city. You can use the tourist train from the Vieux Port to reach the church - you can get off the train, look around and board a later train back to the port.
From the Réformé church (up the Canebière) you can follow the Boulevard Longchamp where you can see nice example of old upper-class buildings to arrive to Palais Longchamp. The palais is worth visiting though it won't take you long. You can visit the "musee des beaux arts" as well as the natural history museum.
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Palais Longchamp
Boulevard Jardin Zoologique
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From the Réformé church (up the Canebière) you can follow the Boulevard Longchamp where you can see nice example of old upper-class buildings to arrive to Palais Longchamp. The palais is worth visiting though it won't take you long. You can visit the "musee des beaux arts" as well as the natural history museum.

Parks & Nature

For stunning coastal scenery, visit the jagged limestone coves and crystal clear waters of the Calanques national park between Marseilles and pretty Cassis, keeping an eye out for fearless climbers making tortuous progress up the rocks. Boat trips leave the Vieux-Port, and Cassis, every day. The park is also ideal for walkers.
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Massif des Calanques
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For stunning coastal scenery, visit the jagged limestone coves and crystal clear waters of the Calanques national park between Marseilles and pretty Cassis, keeping an eye out for fearless climbers making tortuous progress up the rocks. Boat trips leave the Vieux-Port, and Cassis, every day. The park is also ideal for walkers.
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Plage de David
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A large and great park, 300 meters from the sea. After a siesta in the park go have a drink at Escale Borely (a place with numerous restaurants and bars on the beach) to see the sunset.
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Parc Borély
Avenue du Parc Borély
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A large and great park, 300 meters from the sea. After a siesta in the park go have a drink at Escale Borely (a place with numerous restaurants and bars on the beach) to see the sunset.

Arts & Culture

The museum can be reached by a walkway that connects the fort to the roof and terrace of the modern building – mixing the old and new has become a leitmotif of the city. Exhibitions at MuCEM this summer include Shared Holy Places (until 31 Aug) and Traces … Fragments of a Contemporary Tunisia (13 May-28 Sept).
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Mucem
1 Esp. J4
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The museum can be reached by a walkway that connects the fort to the roof and terrace of the modern building – mixing the old and new has become a leitmotif of the city. Exhibitions at MuCEM this summer include Shared Holy Places (until 31 Aug) and Traces … Fragments of a Contemporary Tunisia (13 May-28 Sept).

Entertainment & Activities

A hangout area with bookstores, cafés, fountains, and a playground for the small ones (metro stop Cours Julien/Notre Dame du Mont). It is THE trendy area of Marseille. La Plaine is the local name for Place Jean Jaurès close to Cours Julien. Every Thursday and Saturday morning the Plaine market is the place to shop. If you are there early enough you can make very good deals, even if what you'll find there is sometimes "tombé du camion" (fallen off the truck) as one says in Marseille.
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Association Cours Julien
33 Cr Julien
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A hangout area with bookstores, cafés, fountains, and a playground for the small ones (metro stop Cours Julien/Notre Dame du Mont). It is THE trendy area of Marseille. La Plaine is the local name for Place Jean Jaurès close to Cours Julien. Every Thursday and Saturday morning the Plaine market is the place to shop. If you are there early enough you can make very good deals, even if what you'll find there is sometimes "tombé du camion" (fallen off the truck) as one says in Marseille.
the stadium where the local football team "Olympique de Marseille" plays. Football matches are one of the highlights of Marseilles life. Whilst L'OM have fallen on rather lean times the former champions of Europe are the biggest football team in France. The atmosphere at the stadium is fantastic and whilst visitors are unlikely to get tickets for the popular Virage Nord or Sud seats in the Tribune Ganay offer an excellent view and a chance to soak up the atmosphere. Best games involve teams with some travelling support such as St Etienne, Lens or the grand-daddy match of them all against the evil Paris St Germain. Tickets can be bought (ideally several days before the game) either on-line or from the L'OM shop at the Vieux Port.
Om Médias
the stadium where the local football team "Olympique de Marseille" plays. Football matches are one of the highlights of Marseilles life. Whilst L'OM have fallen on rather lean times the former champions of Europe are the biggest football team in France. The atmosphere at the stadium is fantastic and whilst visitors are unlikely to get tickets for the popular Virage Nord or Sud seats in the Tribune Ganay offer an excellent view and a chance to soak up the atmosphere. Best games involve teams with some travelling support such as St Etienne, Lens or the grand-daddy match of them all against the evil Paris St Germain. Tickets can be bought (ideally several days before the game) either on-line or from the L'OM shop at the Vieux Port.

Getting Around

Metro
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Préfecture
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Metro
Parking about 15e/day
Cours Pierre Puget
Cours Pierre Puget
Parking about 15e/day